AUTUMN WINTER 2026 COLLECTION
[ FOURTY GESTURES ]
A series rarely begins with a full picture.
More often, it starts with fragments: shapes, movements, materials. Like rocks, scattered across a tabletop. What’s important is not the objects themselves, but the logic that gradually emerges in their relations to each other.
The 2026 Fall Winter collection originates from a workflow closer to that of a sculptor’s miniatures, pieced from colored blocks, carry every form’s most basic structural logic. They are simplified to the most basic proportions and tensions, emerging one after another as not yet clothes, but the contours of possibilities. As these models accumulate, each becomes a coordinate in a collective grid. It is a map of shapes, an “SKU board” of structures. In this process, improvisation is embraced, albeit within limitations. Maybe this is the difference between creating a series and a single artwork: artworks aspire for the perfect, singular form, while a series accepts serendipity amongst order.
Movement, is the starting point of this season.
The “form” of every look: a lean, a turn, a stretch, sometimes even just a light tilt is documented by a painting.
Movement is performed by the clothes’ possessors, but the material sculpts these gestures. And so, action generates contours, contours become structures. Clothes stop being still-life, but fulcrums in the balancing act between body, material, and motion.
Rocks, is the metaphor of this season’s material exploration.
In nature, rocks record time and document pressure. This season’s materials have undergone a similar transformation.
Knitting and weaving are no longer mutually exclusive. After felting, knitwear can become as dense as woven: while structurally loose woven can gain the fluidity and flexibility of knitwear. Borders of distinctions fade. Materials are no longer defined by their definitions, but by the way we use them.
The show is located in RUOHAN’s new Paris office, also by a river. A courtyard with two fishes.
“The first time we entered this space, a familiar scent came to us. It possessed a quiet but apparent kinetics, which reminded us of the feeling of moving into the office at Shanghai’s Suzhou river for the first time.”
Some spaces, before the stories even unfold, already signify a new stage. This collection is born in such a phase. The format of a salon, in an antiquated manner, brings each look closer to the overall collection.
Chance, framed. Perhaps, this is the method.
